Crochet Raglan Sweater

When it comes to cozy and stylish winter fashion, the Crochet Raglan Sweater is a must-have in anyone's wardrobe! This versatile piece combines the classic raglan sleeves with the artistry of crochet to create a unique and trendy look. Whether you're snuggled up by the fireplace or out for a casual day with friends, this sweater will keep you warm and fashionable. Pair it with your favorite jeans or leggings for a chic and comfortable outfit that never goes out of style. So go ahead, embrace the charm of crochet and rock your Crochet Raglan Sweater with confidence and flair!

Pattern notes:

This pattern is made using US terminology.

The cover photo shows a 5’2 female wearing size M without any modifications done to the pattern.

This raglan sweater is worked in rounds that act as rows. This helps to keep the back seam straight. Turn your work after each ch 2 of every round (except for the ribbed portions and sleeves) and slst at the top of the first st to close and end each round.

The pattern was designed and written in separate instructions for each size (XS-5X) for steady increases along the raglan line

The ch 2 sts at the beginning of each round are not counted as a stitch in the overall stitch count.

Ch1 space in the raglan corners are not counted in the overall stitch count

This sweater is designed with an equal back and front, if you need more stitches in the front (for larger busts) transfer as many stitches needed from the back to the front.

Multiple repeat rows (ex R3-10…) show the stitch count for the final row indicated.

Bobbles rounds are always on even numbered rows on the body and will end up being on the right side of the sweater (facing out).

There are variations in rate of increases on raglan corners. Here are some variations you may encounter during rounds:

increase on body, increase on sleeve (dc-ch1-dc)

increase on body, no increase on sleeve (dc-ch1 or ch1-dc)

2 increase on body, increase on sleeve (2dc-ch1-dc or dc-ch1-2dc)

2 increase on body, no increase on sleeve (2dc-ch1 or ch1-2dc)

Materials:

• CYC 4 yarn. I used Lion Brand Yarn’s Jeans in Top Stitch for XS (S, M, L, XL)(2X, 3X, 4X, 5X) approximately 6 (7, 7, 8, 8)(9, 10, 11, 11) balls
• 4.0mm crochet Hook
• Scissors
• Needle
• Stitch markers

Gauge – Do not forget to make your gauge!

18 sts x 10 rows = 4” x 4”

Sizes and Measurements

Abbreviations:

• Ch – chain
• Fdc – foundation double crochet
• Dc – double crochet
• 5-dc popcorn – 5 double crochet popcorn/bobble stitch
• FPdc – front post dc
• BPdc – back post dc
• St/s – stitch/es
• Slst – slip stitch

Let’s start making your crocheted raglan sweater

Beginning of the Raglan

R1: Fdc 92, slst to close the circle.

Do not turn.

R2: Ch 2, *FPdc, BPdc. Repeat from * until end of the round. Slst. (92 sts)

R3: Ch 2, *FPdc, BPdc. Repeat from * until end of the round. Slst. (92 sts)

Yoke

You are now going to start turning your work each round after R1 below.

R1: ch 2, dc in next 12 sts, dc-ch1-dc, dc into next 19 sts, dc-ch1-dc, dc into next 25 sts, dc-ch1-dc, dc in next 19 sts, dc-ch1,dc, dc in next 13 sts, slst. (96 sts)

Place stitch markers in the ch1 raglan corners.

Look at the front side of your garment, right side out. Set a stitch marker on the middle stitch of the row. *Count two stitches from the stitch marker and place another stitch marker. Count 5 sts from that st marker and place another stitch marker. Continue placing stitch markers every 5 sts until you get to the raglan corner. Repeat from * on the other side of the center stitch marker.

In the photo above, the red marker is the center and the blue markers are the raglan corners. Green markers are where you will be placing the bobbles. The photo below shows how the section will look.

R2: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1, dc until raglan st marker, ch1-dc, *dc until bobble st marker and 5-dc popcorn. Repeat from * until next raglan st marker, dc,-ch1, dc until next raglan st marker,ch1-dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (100 sts)

R3: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (108 sts)

R4: Repeat R2 (112 sts)

Note: To make things easier, look at the first bobble of the last bobble round.

Now count 2 sts from that bobble and on the next st place a st marker. On the third row (dc all around) move the st marker up. This will be where you are going to place the first bobble of the fourth row.

On the fourth row, place a bobble where the st marker was placed, dc in next 5 sts, then place another bobble. Ultimately, you will be placing 5 Dcs inbetween stitch markers.

R5: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-2dc, dc until raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-2dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (124 sts)

R6: Repeat R2 (128 sts)

R7: Repeat R3 (136 sts)

R8: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until bobble st marker and 5-dc popcorn, *dc in next 5 sts, 5-dc popcorn. Repeat from * until next raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc,dc until next raglan st marker, dc-ch1-dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (144 sts)

R9: Repeat R3 (152 sts)

R10: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1-2dc, dc until bobble st marker and 5-dc popcorn, *dc in next 5 sts, 5-dc popcorn. Repeat from * until next raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1-dc,dc until next raglan st marker, dc-ch1-2dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (164 sts)

R11-14: Repeat R3 and R8 respectively (196 sts)

R15: Repeat R5 (208 sts)

R16-17: Repeat R8 and R3 respectively (224 sts)

R18: Repeat R2 (228 sts)

R19: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1, dc until raglan st marker, ch1-dc, dc until raglan st marker, dc-ch1, dc until raglan st marker, ch1-dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (232 sts)

R20: ch 2, dc until raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1, dc until raglan st marker, ch1-2dc, dc until bobble st marker and 5-dc popcorn, *dc in next 5 sts, 5-dc popcorn. Repeat from * until next raglan st marker, 2dc-ch1,dc until next raglan st marker, ch1-2dc, dc until end of the round, slst. (240 sts)

R21: Repeat R19 (244 sts)

Body:

You are now done with the yoke and going to split the sleeves and work straight down for the body. Moving forward, there will be no more additional bobble count. You are going to alternate between the last two bobble row placements.

R22: ch 2, dc in each st until raglan point. Ch 9, skip to the next raglan point. Dc until bobble st marker and 5-dc popcorn, *dc in next 5 sts, 5-dc popcorn. Repeat from * until next raglan point. Ch 9, skip to the next raglan point, dc in each st until end of the round, slst. (150 sts and 18 underarm ch)

R23: ch 2, dc in each st all around. (168 sts)

R24: ch 2, dc until bobble section, work the bobble section and continue dc in each st until end of the round. Slst. (168 sts)

R25-51: Repeat R23 and R24 respectively. (168 sts)

R52: ch 2, dc in each st all around. (168 sts)

You are now going to work on the bottom ribbing DO NOT TURN after each round.

R53: ch 2, dc in each st all around. (168 sts)

R54: Ch 2, *FPdc, BPdc. Repeat from * until end of the round. Slst. (168 sts)

R55: Ch 2, *FPdc, BPdc. Repeat from * until end of the round. Slst. (168 sts)

Fasten off

Sleeves:

Attach yarn to an underarm stitch. You are going to work continuously in the round, no turning needed. If you want an invisible/straighter seam, refer to note section.

R1: Ch 2, dc into same st to begin the row, dc into the vertical bar on R22, dc in each St around the armhole, dc into the vertical bar on R19. Dc in each st until the end of the row, slst to end the round. (58 sts)

R2-28: ch 2, dc in each st down the row, slst. (58 sts)

R29: ch 2, *dc, dc2otg. Repeat from * to end of the round. (39 sts)

R30: ch 2, dc all around. (39 sts)

R31-43: Ch 2, *FPdc, BPdc. Repeat from * until end of the round. Slst. (39 sts)