Crochet Beautiful Crocodile

Crochet Beautiful Crocodile is a delightful pattern that combines creativity with whimsy to create a charming crocheted creation. The intricate details of the crocodile's scales and the adorable crooked smile bring character and personality to this handcrafted piece. Whether you're a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, this project is sure to bring joy and satisfaction as you watch the crocodile come to life stitch by stitch. With each completed row, you'll feel a sense of accomplishment and pride in your crafting skills. So gather your yarn, hook, and patience, and get ready to embark on a crocheting adventure that will result in a truly unique and lovable crocodile friend.

You will need:

• 3mm crochet hook (Can use 4mm if preferred)
• 2.5mm hook (not essential)
• Yarn needle
• Yarn (approx 60g or 170m)
• Soft toy filling

Stitches and abbreviations used:

(I am from England but use US crochet terms)

• MC — Magic circle/ring (sc unless otherwise specified)
• Ch — Chain
• SC — Single crochet
• Inc — Increase stitch (2 single crochets into one stitch)
• Dec — Decrease stitch (single crochet 2 stitches together)
• HDC — Half double crochet
• DC — Double crochet
• ST — Stitch
• FLO — Front loop only
• BLO — Back loop only
• PC — Popcorn stitch. This is generally done with 5dc however I used 3dc for the pc in this pattern
• SLST — Slip stitch
• FO — finish off

Other things to note....

• This is worked in continuous rounds. It is helpful to use a stitch marker to keep track
• The number in ( ) at the end of each round indicates the total stitch count for that round
• * * indicates repeated series of stitches
• Use invisible decreases for a neater finished product
• Stitches in [ ] are worked into one stitch

Main face and body:

1. MC (6)
2. *Inc* (12)
3. *1sc, inc* (18)
4. 18sc (18)
5. 18sc (18)
6. 18sc (18)
7. 18sc (18)
8. *2sc, inc* (24)
9. 24sc (24)
10. 24sc (24)
11. 24sc (24)
12. 24sc (24)
13. 24sc (24)
14. 24sc (24)
15. 24sc (24)
16. *3sc, inc* (30)
17. FO the first one here and make the second, do not finish off the second one. Join both pieces together with 12sc through both pieces (12)
18. sc around the new outside edge — no more stitches will be added on top of round 17. Note that the start of the round where you place your stitch marker will differ greatly from where it was at the end of round 16 (36)
19. 36sc (36)
20. 36sc (36)
21. 36sc (36)
22. 36sc (36)
23. 36sc (36)
24. 36sc (36)
25. *4sc, dec* (30)
26. *3sc, dec* (24)
27. *2sc, dec* (18)
28. 18sc (18)
29. *2sc, inc* (24)
30. 24sc (24)
31. 24sc (24)
32. *3sc, inc* (30)
33. 30sc (30)
34. 30sc (30)
35. *4sc, inc* (36)
36. 36sc (36)
37. 36sc (36)
38. 36sc (36)
39. *8sc, inc* (40)
40. 40sc (40)
41. 40sc (40)
42. 40sc (40)
43. 40sc (40)
44. 40sc (40)
45. *9sc, inc* (44)
46. 44sc (44)
47. 44sc (44)
48. 44sc (44)
49. 44sc (44)
50. 44sc (44)
51. *9sc, dec* (40)
52. 40sc (40)
53. 40sc (40)
54. *8sc, dec* (36)
55. 36sc (36)
56. *4sc, dec* (30)
57. 30sc (30)
58. 30sc (30)
59. *3sc, dec* (24)
60. 24sc (24)
61. 24sc (24)
62. *2sc, dec* (18)
63. 18sc (18)
64. 18sc (18)
65. *4sc, dec* (15)
66. 15sc (15)
67. 15sc (15)
68. 15sc (15)
69. *3sc, dec* (12)
70. 12sc (12)
71. 12sc (12)
72. 12sc (12)
73. *2sc, dec* (9)
74. 9sc (9)
75. 9sc (9)
76. 9sc (9)
77. *1sc, dec* (6)
78. FO and close hole.

Spikes:

Using a smaller hook if available but not essential

Join yarn to piece, ch1. *2sc into one stitch space, [1hdc, 1dc, 1hdc] into the next stitch space* repeat this for the desired length. Slst to finish and hide yarn tails in body

For smaller spikes (used for the two side lines), add more distance (stitch spaces) between your stitches.

Nostrils:

Using the same technique as the spikes but using sc only

Legs x4:

1. MC (6)
2. *Inc* (12)
3. *1sc, inc* (18)
4. BLO — 5sc, pc, sc, pc, sc, pc, sc, pc, 6sc (18)
5. sc skipping over the pc stitches from previous round (14)
6. 3sc, dec x4, 3sc (10)
7. 10sc (10)
8. 10sc (10)
9. 10sc (10)
10. 10sc (10)
11. 10sc (10)
12. 10sc (10)
13. FO, leaving long yarn tail to sew to body.